For people seeking to build skincare routines, the thought of understanding long and varied ingredient lists may seem intimidating. Worry not, most of them are all general variations of the same, and what you really need to keep an eye on are Actives.

’Actives’ are ingredients that do what the product promises to do. These are usually backed up by scientific research, and are generally classed as “anti-acne,” “anti-inflammatory,” “moisturizing” and the like.

Why We Love Azelaic Acid

Acids may seem pretty scary, but they’re regularly found in a lot of commercial and prescription skincare products. Typically used for exfoliation, the proper amount and usage of acids in one’s skincare routine can typically help brighten up the complexion, decrease bumpy texture, fight acne, and even out the skin tone- depending on the type of acid used.

Azelaic acid treats acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, melasma, which are pretty common skin issues among Filipinas. Due to our polluted environment and with our country sitting close to the equator, our skin encounters a lot of damaging elements that really take a toll on our skin health.

We love azelaic acid because aside from the conditions it treats above, it also “has antibacterial, antioxidant, and anti-keratinizing properties. It prevents dead skin build up, unclogs pores, reduces redness, and most importantly does all this gently without major side effects!” Basically, an acid without major side effects!

Try: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% (P800/30ml, available in BeautyMNL)

The Ordinary has a pretty good reputation for bringing the art and science of skincare to everyday people. We’ve seen some reviews claiming it has a grainy texture, which is consistent with the research that azelaic acid is difficult to formulate. It is probably one of the most accessible options available, but seeing as it doesn’t have the best texture and is often out of stock, might not be worth your tears.

Try: Azelane Clinical Whitening Soap (P380/bar, available in DMD Skin Sciences)

Dr. Mike Dellariarte is a Filipino dermatologist who created his own azelaic acid soap. By isolating the Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate compound, he was able to address typical formulation issues associated with azelaic acid. This soap is part of his Azelane line, which also includes the Azelane Sebum-Regulating spray (P1790/100ml) which can be used for mid-day oil control.

Try: VMV Red Better Daily Calming Moisturizer (P1150/120ml, available in VMV Hypoallergenics)

VMV Hypoallergenics is another well-establiished, #lovelocal brand helmed by a Filipina dermatologist. Known for their ‘clean’ formulation and great product lineups, the Red Better line is marketed for sensitive skin that flares up with redness. If you have sensitive skin prone to redness, this might be the format for you.

Try: Skinoren 15% Azelaic Cream (price available upon request, Mercury Drug)

Many of the most potent skin actives can be found in the drugstore, and some are even available without prescription. Skinoren is one of the highest concentration AzA I’ve found available locally, though some sources say it requires prescription if purchased through Watsons. While studies show that lower concentrations of AzA still show improvement on the skin, most studies consider it in concentrations of 15-20%.

Wherever you are in your skincare journey, the most important step is to observe and listen to your skin. Like any other self-care habit, skincare is a long and ever-changing journey.

The information in this article is meant to provide basic information about azelaic acid. Please consult a PDS-certified dermatologist before adding new items to your skincare routine.

Photos from @deciem, @dmdskinsciences, @vmvhypoallergenics, @lerato_prim on Instagram.

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Kristel Yap is a professional makeup artist. She has been a beauty writer for almost a decade, sharing the latest in makeup, skincare and beauty on her blog Beauty by Tellie. You may follow her on Instagram @beautybytellie.