The unapologetic modernity of the 15th district of Front de Seine in Paris provides a striking backdrop for the Lacoste A/W 2021-22 collection designed by Louise Trotter.

The concept of the tracksuits and twinsets is quintessentially sportif, subverted in multiple ways for men and women as trompe l’oeil shirting, cardigans and jogging pants create subtly matching sports ensembles all cut in cotton piqué—which is the keystone material of the Lacoste polo shirt.

With a swatch card of bright shades grounded in muted neutrals, the collection tricks the eye with blown-up and shrunken proportions, unexpected fabrications, and the emergence of comic Lacoste characters. Like a cartoon, the signature house crocodile is reborn larger than life, as archive claw patches and bold croc heads create a new iconography alongside flaming tennis balls, a ‘tennis net’ shadow check, and an L-shaped varsity logo.

Tailoring reflects the sartorial heritage of the house founder René Lacoste, as the smooth enveloping lines of peacoats, varsity jackets, overcoats and trenches are tweaked for today with knit collars and light nylon quilting.

Evolving the upcycled design process of recent seasons, the collection’s shell suits, puffer coats and quilted liners are reconstructed from a patchwork of vintage and deadstock Lacoste fabrics– creating new geometries in classic sport shapes. Neoprene crop tops and sculpted shorts for women exude both athletic and the engineered feel of garments. Crisp unisex chinos feature elastic Velcro cuffs, polychrome leggings in neoprene and patched knit zip high above the ankle, and speed stripes echo the racing aesthetic of checkerboard jacquard polos and trims. 

Photographed by Sam Rock against architectural landmarks in Paris,  this season’s playful exchange of graphic sport codes and remixed classics appears in sharp relief.

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