Manila, Philippines —As the seasons change, so does our approach to fashion. For the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme, times of transition serve as inspiration for a dual wardrobe philosophy. The Fall 2023 Collection introduces a contemporary work-to-play uniform that embraces everyday adaptability through a fresh generational perspective on dress codes.
The runway show took place in the magnificent ballroom of the Musée d’Orsay, where the Beaux-Arts decor served as a striking contrast to the immersive installation created by Philippe Parreno and James Chinlund. The installation meticulously replicated a bustling Parisian street, complete with honking cars, barking dogs, and the rhythmic sound of clicking heels, masterfully curated by sound designer Nicolas Becker.
Building upon the Maison’s expertise in menswear, this collection presents a hybrid of traditional professional and casual dressing, offering a thoughtful transitional wardrobe. Designed by the Louis Vuitton Studio Prêt-à-Porter Homme as a standalone proposal, it sets the stage for the debut show of Men’s Creative Director Pharrell Williams in June 2023.
The concept for the fall Louis Vuitton collection emerged from the mind of Nicolas Ghesquière after a period of travel when the world was beginning to open up again. He pondered the question, “What is French style?” Recognizing the brand’s global influence, he felt a responsibility to explore this question, leading him to seek the perspectives of the young designers in his studio. With their diverse backgrounds and international perspectives, their interpretations of French style varied greatly, showcasing the elusive and captivating essence of the French “je ne sais quoi.”
Throughout his tenure at Louis Vuitton, Ghesquière has explored the realms of surrealism and sci-fi. However, this collection brought him back down to earth while maintaining his signature high-fashion touch. Upon closer inspection, the clothes revealed extraordinary details, such as a seemingly woolen camel coat that was, in fact, crafted from leather, intricately embossed and printed. Hand-painted pinstripes adorned a pair of leather jeans, accentuated by sequins, while three-dimensional embroideries on spider-web-inspired dresses were achieved through the meticulous placement of thousands of tiny metal coils, known as cannetilles.
So, what were the responses from the design studio regarding French style? Ultimately, they captured the essence of French identity in their creations. The iconic Tricolore, represented by blue, white, and red, found its way onto a quilted GO 14 shoulder bag and leather gloves. The Opéra Garnier served as inspiration, as hinted by the illuminating Phantom of the Opera masks. Additionally, the collection alluded to the concept of “Cinq à Sept,” a colloquial term for an affair, which translated into sumptuous dressing gowns, pajama tops, and plush faux fur shorts.
From his influential position in the world of fashion, Ghesquière has undoubtedly left an indelible mark on French style, as well as global fashion trends, over the past few decades. The enduring image of the “French girl look,” often characterized by a strong-shouldered jacket and skinny pants, owes its popularity to his mastery of these timeless essentials. While surrealism and sci-fi elements are undeniably part of his creative DNA, this collection resonates on a deeper level as it intertwines with real-life experiences. Notably desirable were the finely embroidered slip dresses paired with chunky hand-knit scarves casually draped over the shoulder, perfectly complemented by boots.
When asked if he had reached a conclusion about French style, Ghesquière humbly shook his head. He explained that every season, they strive to answer this question implicitly. However, this season, they embraced the concept wholeheartedly, recognizing that French style transcends boundaries and belongs to everyone.
The Fall 2023 Louis Vuitton Ready-to-Wear Collection is a testament to the brand’s commitment to reinventing and redefining the essence of French style. Through its innovative designs, attention to detail, and imaginative craftsmanship, this collection elevates fashion to new heights while honoring the legacy of Louis Vuitton as a global powerhouse.